Picture the opening dinner scene from an Agatha Christy murder mystery-set in the castle of a small, foreign village. Accents from around the world are heard as small talk begins around the table. There is the retired military commander who spent his career in exotic foreign postings; the manager of the large international corporation whose territory involves all of Europe and the Near East; the doctor from America; the quiet, prim school teacher from England and the mysterious couple from ....... we're not quite sure, because their accent is unfamiliar and they keep to themselves. This was our week in Sorriano nel Cimino.
After leaving Switzerland, we spent a few days traveling through Aix-en-Province, Genoa and Orvieto on our way to the Palazzo Catalani in Sorriano nel Cimino, Italy. Aix is beautiful. We hit it on a festival week-end which featured every organization in the province putting on a display of their work. It was great fun- lots of good food and entertainment. Genoa has the biggest collection of wealthy yacht owners I have ever seen. There were eight cruise ships in the harbor, besides a few freighters. Orveito is one of those beautiful hilltowns that everyone has discovered with lots of tourist shops and beautiful views of towers, churches and quaint, narrow streets. This leads us to Sorriano.
Sorriano sits high above the Tiber River Valley midway between two main arterials leading to Rome. Because it is not on a main line, it is a little difficult to get to, hasn't grown as much as it should and hasn't been discovered by many.
Our hotel is the only one in town. It has only eighteen rooms of interesting travelers (the characters from our Agatha Christy play) who appreciate what they have found here and a staff that any business would die for. There are no other visitors in this town, unless they are staying with friends or family. The main square is filled with locals until 1:00 pm, at which time everyone disappears and all businesses close (except caffes) until 4:00 pm, when the town gets temporarily crowded.
A great cup of capuccino costs £.90, an out-of-this-world pastry is another £.90; the wine and olive oil are locally produced. A great, multi-course dinner for two with a couple bottles of really good wine can run to £25-30. A really good dinner for two with a bottle of wine can be £12-15.
While here, we have been treated to a night of dinner-opera, tours of a wine cava and olive pressing works and a beautiful park in nearby Bagnaia which was a castle hunting grounds. It has a series of water features cascading down a hillside which was the model for Versaille.
Last night we had dinner in some local people's home. It was the nicest, fun-filled evening. We were treated to home-made aptipasti, tons of home-made wine and , while the homemade sauce cooked, the men had to make the pasta from scatch.
We have walked thousands of steps in and out of our city. We have sat for hours in the square and watched people. We have made a transition from strangers to be watched to visitors to be spoken to. The people here are so friendly and helpful. We have made some new friends from around the world. Interestingly, two of the people we met and enjoyed most tremendously are from Chelan, WA. They are over here on their first visit and we are hoping to spend time with them on their next visit here.
Tomorrow, with a lot (and I really do mean a lot), of sadness we will leave Sorriano. We are headed for Sorrento on the Amalfi coast, probably getting into Naples for a day. They have a good museum that we missed last time because of a labor strike. We are looking forward to more great places and more great people.
Now, disregard all the good things I said about Sorriano nel Cimino. It is a terrible place and you never want to come here. Don't tell anyone else about it and don't look up info or pictues on the internet.
See you!
Friday, September 28, 2007
Thursday, September 13, 2007
This has to be the set of "The Sound of Music"
Wow! Can you believe we've been on the road for a month and we're still speaking to one another. We've been too busy to be homesick, so we can probably last another few months. Here's a catch up for everyone.
WE ARE IN HEIDI LAND!!! There is not a flat space in 30 kilometers. We are in a little ski village (winter) that becomes grazing land for cows and goats in summer. Each animal hs a bell on its neck, the bigger the animal, the bigger the bell; so we have a chorus all day and into the night. It is really beautiful music.
We traveled from Paris to Geneva by train last Friday and stayed in a hostel so we could pick up a rental car for this week. We traveled through flat farmland that became rolling hills filled with grape vineyards. Vineyards in every direction as far as you could see. This changed to high hills and mountains with vineyards as high on the mountains as they could be supported. The architecture changed from all stone to stone and wood to mostly wood chalets. It's like a giant Leavenworth.
In Geneva, we stayed in a very nice, clean, efficient hostel. The co-ed shower and toilet rooms were kind of culture shock for us. You yound people are probably used to the co-ed dorm stuff, but for us old-folks, stepping out of the shower to be greeted by a bunch of young people of both genders doing their hair, shaving and putting on make-up at the same sinks is kind of.... uh......... interesting.
We picked up our SMARTCAR and drove beside Lake Geneva with the top down, snow covered mountains above us and a warm sun on us. How can you beat that?
The Alps are so fantastic! I just can't believe how high and steep they are. I really don't think any mountains in the US are as rugged. And I can't believe how high the people live on the sides. We have a 20K, steep, windey drive up out of the valley and and all along it there are driveways that just disappear over the edge of the one lane road. AND I can't believe the number of bicyclists that are riding UP these mountains.
Tuesday, we did the most exciting trip. We went by gondola (two different ones, actually) up from Chamonix, across the Alps to Italy. The ride is straight up, then you cross glaciers beside Mount Blanc. You can almost reach out and touch it. Do not ever miss that ride if you get near Chamonix.
This week end we are off to southern France and on into Italy. See you soon.
WE ARE IN HEIDI LAND!!! There is not a flat space in 30 kilometers. We are in a little ski village (winter) that becomes grazing land for cows and goats in summer. Each animal hs a bell on its neck, the bigger the animal, the bigger the bell; so we have a chorus all day and into the night. It is really beautiful music.
We traveled from Paris to Geneva by train last Friday and stayed in a hostel so we could pick up a rental car for this week. We traveled through flat farmland that became rolling hills filled with grape vineyards. Vineyards in every direction as far as you could see. This changed to high hills and mountains with vineyards as high on the mountains as they could be supported. The architecture changed from all stone to stone and wood to mostly wood chalets. It's like a giant Leavenworth.
In Geneva, we stayed in a very nice, clean, efficient hostel. The co-ed shower and toilet rooms were kind of culture shock for us. You yound people are probably used to the co-ed dorm stuff, but for us old-folks, stepping out of the shower to be greeted by a bunch of young people of both genders doing their hair, shaving and putting on make-up at the same sinks is kind of.... uh......... interesting.
We picked up our SMARTCAR and drove beside Lake Geneva with the top down, snow covered mountains above us and a warm sun on us. How can you beat that?
The Alps are so fantastic! I just can't believe how high and steep they are. I really don't think any mountains in the US are as rugged. And I can't believe how high the people live on the sides. We have a 20K, steep, windey drive up out of the valley and and all along it there are driveways that just disappear over the edge of the one lane road. AND I can't believe the number of bicyclists that are riding UP these mountains.
Tuesday, we did the most exciting trip. We went by gondola (two different ones, actually) up from Chamonix, across the Alps to Italy. The ride is straight up, then you cross glaciers beside Mount Blanc. You can almost reach out and touch it. Do not ever miss that ride if you get near Chamonix.
This week end we are off to southern France and on into Italy. See you soon.
Thursday, September 6, 2007
We know it's not just about the food, but we found the world's best bakery!
PARIS
BIG, BIG, BIG!
Monuments, parks, boulevards and traffic
A bagette under everyone's arm
Everyone carries bags-many stores don't give them away;
We are staying in a suburb east of Paris; Vincennes is noted for it's flowers (tons of beautiful gardens, hanging planter boxes from any type of pole and small floral centers in the middle of any odd-shaped intersection) and it's Bois de Vincennes, the largest forest in Paris. It is a lovely little town with street-corner restaurants, boulongieries (best bread anywhere on Earth), fresh fruit markets and fun little stores. We are 20 minutes from downtown Paris on the Metro.
We have been to see everything and I think we walked everywhere there is to walk in Paris. The Metro system is fantastic. You can get anywhere, quickly and easily. All you need to know is the destination's station name, the number of the line you want to ride and the names of the stations at each end of the line (So you know you are going in the right direction.)
Of everything to see in Paris, do not miss Versailles. This is about the biggest monument we've ever seen. The gardens go on forever and they are all free. You have to pay to see the king's apartments, which are so impressive! Skip the queen's apartments unless you really groove on the historical aspect of being in Marie Antoinette's house. You have to pay extra for it and it's really not that impressive.
Bring a picnic lunch and explore the grounds. There are rental boats available on the lake and hundreds of monuments, fountains, statues and ponds to sit around while enjoying lunch. I bet you couldn't see the whole grounds in a week of hiking.
After a week of non-stop, today is laundry day, internet day, sit and drink coffee on the corner day, with some time out for a relaxing walk in the Bois, stopping to read in the sun when the mood struck us.
We will finish the evening with the very finest bagette, a selection of cheeses, some fresh vegetables and fruit and a couple bottles of wine. We have to have two bottles because Gail likes white and I have found a delightful red table wine that costs less than a buck a bottle.
Tomorrow we are of to Switzerland on the train.
Bye for now!
BARCELONA
We forgot to say anything about Barcelona. We only had one night and one long day of sightseeing, but OH! What a beautiful city! The buildings are soooo beautiful. The Sagrada Familia (Gaudi's fantastic church) and the Piccaso Museum are great. The paseo at night along the mail street was the most beautiful (people, clothing, entertrainers) We will return here!
BIG, BIG, BIG!
Monuments, parks, boulevards and traffic
A bagette under everyone's arm
Everyone carries bags-many stores don't give them away;
We are staying in a suburb east of Paris; Vincennes is noted for it's flowers (tons of beautiful gardens, hanging planter boxes from any type of pole and small floral centers in the middle of any odd-shaped intersection) and it's Bois de Vincennes, the largest forest in Paris. It is a lovely little town with street-corner restaurants, boulongieries (best bread anywhere on Earth), fresh fruit markets and fun little stores. We are 20 minutes from downtown Paris on the Metro.
We have been to see everything and I think we walked everywhere there is to walk in Paris. The Metro system is fantastic. You can get anywhere, quickly and easily. All you need to know is the destination's station name, the number of the line you want to ride and the names of the stations at each end of the line (So you know you are going in the right direction.)
Of everything to see in Paris, do not miss Versailles. This is about the biggest monument we've ever seen. The gardens go on forever and they are all free. You have to pay to see the king's apartments, which are so impressive! Skip the queen's apartments unless you really groove on the historical aspect of being in Marie Antoinette's house. You have to pay extra for it and it's really not that impressive.
Bring a picnic lunch and explore the grounds. There are rental boats available on the lake and hundreds of monuments, fountains, statues and ponds to sit around while enjoying lunch. I bet you couldn't see the whole grounds in a week of hiking.
After a week of non-stop, today is laundry day, internet day, sit and drink coffee on the corner day, with some time out for a relaxing walk in the Bois, stopping to read in the sun when the mood struck us.
We will finish the evening with the very finest bagette, a selection of cheeses, some fresh vegetables and fruit and a couple bottles of wine. We have to have two bottles because Gail likes white and I have found a delightful red table wine that costs less than a buck a bottle.
Tomorrow we are of to Switzerland on the train.
Bye for now!
BARCELONA
We forgot to say anything about Barcelona. We only had one night and one long day of sightseeing, but OH! What a beautiful city! The buildings are soooo beautiful. The Sagrada Familia (Gaudi's fantastic church) and the Piccaso Museum are great. The paseo at night along the mail street was the most beautiful (people, clothing, entertrainers) We will return here!
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